Article appeared in the July 29, 2004 edition of Adventist Review.
BY LINDA WERMAN BRAWNER

 KNEEL IN A CROWDED hotel lobby and rest against a pile of luggage. Whatever madness had driven me to Israel could just polish me off, please.

"Are you all right?" A bellhop kneels beside me.

"I don't feel well," I admit. A moment later he returns with a chair, and I gratefully slump into it. At least I look more respectable.

"How do you feel?" asks another staff member. Translation: Please don't die here. It would be horrible for business. A little later another asks, "Are you all right?"

"Yes, I'm just so very tired." Tired of life and its wild ride.

One Tough Year
Where had things gone wrong? In the spring my husband, daughter, and I dressed up for a family portrait. It was easy to select the proof--the one in which we all smiled like rogues impersonating a respectable family. By Mother's Day we didn't smile so brightly. My father had been diagnosed with terminal cancer. Six weeks later my best friend, also named Linda, died from respiratory failure. Despite the doctor's promises my father died that August. Two weeks later my husband told me his father had died that morning. The day of his funeral I received my father-in-law's card of condolence concerning my own father's death. Now, three months later, I was coping worse than ever.

Day by Day
"How are you doing?" asked my friend Ruby as our pastor wheeled her into our room.

"Well, supper's staying down. Oops!" I nimbly bolted for the bathroom. When I emerged, I assured her, "If I can just get some rest in a horizontal position, I'll be fine." Cheer up, I commanded myself. At least Ruby shares your love of an open window. The
Mediterranean lulled us to sleep like a mother caressing her firstborn.

Day one of our pilgrimage was a blur. I clearly remember 46 offers of Dramamine and unseasonably pleasant temperatures. Our guide, Gadi, devoted himself to shielding us from what he called "technicalities," and valiantly crammed our heads full of history and archaeology. To my relief he deliberately avoided revealing his religious beliefs. The day ended in Tiberias, where the Sea of Galilee gently sang our lullaby.

Day two started wonderfully. How could you not love a land where you get to eat cheesecake for breakfast? By consensus our group installed Ruby and me in the front seat of the bus. Ruby needed crutches to get in and out of the bus, and a wheelchair to keep up with the group. We rapidly learned that ancient churches and archaeological ruins are not wheelchair accessible. We traveled with several men from our church, and Ruby saw almost everything. It comforted me to see others help, some of whom we had just met in Tel Aviv. Maybe I was not as alone as I felt.

Day three dawned with promise. I stood in a shallow pool fed by the
Jordan River. "With all that I've been through this year, I have never doubted that God is by my side," I told my pastor. "But I can't sense His presence. I want to feel Him by my side." In the next pool a Spanish group sang "I Have Decided to Follow Jesus," a song featured at my baptism.

On the bus I sat relaxed. Pastor Tom looked me in the eyes and said, "I see before me a rejuvenated Christian."

That afternoon we left
Nazareth, using the route Jesus would have walked to Jerusalem. The beauty of the desert soothed my battered heart. The beauty of Jerusalem at my feet took my breath away.

Day four ended in
Bethlehem. I bought a number of beautiful trinkets. One shopkeeper offered me a discount on delicate mother-of-pearl broaches. After giving me a good price, he removed a flawed broach from my hand. "I don't like the looks of this one," he explained, and replaced it with a perfect broach. His deed warmed me.

Next we entered the Church of the Nativity, a regular wheelchair obstacle course. Men carried Ruby to the manger, where a Roman Catholic nun abruptly ended her song. Ruby and I laughed halfway back to the bus. The sight must have been similar to that of the paralytic being lowered through the roof, unceremoniously dropped at the feet of Jesus.

Day five began at the church of the Holy Sepulchre. I yearned to see the
Garden of Gethsemane. Here the olive trees have endured 2,000 years of change and witnessed the agony of Jesus. After five minutes of politely perusing the church, I sought Gadi outside.

"I would like to go to the garden next door," I said, "the one for private meditation." As we walked I offered, "My father died this summer; ever since then I like to be outside. Perhaps I feel closer to God without a roof over my head."

I furtively searched the garden. Another busload of tourists, er, pilgrims, threatened to deny me the privacy I sought. Wait. The front half of the garden was deserted. There was a bench. As I sat I noticed a gate in the middle of the garden. On a hill behind it was a life-size sculpture of Christ kneeling in prayer. I wept freely. I didn't care who else heard me, for I knew that Christ did. He knew how alone and afraid I felt without my father. En route to
Bethany, Gadi slowly smiled at me. I reflected his smile.

The day ended at the
Dead Sea. Gadi cautioned us: "You must go floating. Do not swim. Do not put your face in the water. The salt will hurt your eyes. Take off your watches, all your jewelry."

"And give them to Gadi," I quipped in his accent.

"And give them to Gadi," he repeated into the microphone. Then he said to me, "I like you. You stay. We make a good team."

The shore was treacherous, and I fell into the water often. A woman called out, "Linda, you'll ruin your glasses. Give them to me." Reluctantly I surrendered my eyesight. I have always dog-paddled in water because I hate getting my face wet.

"Swim on your back, Linda," my pastor said. Why not? I can't dog-paddle while I bob like a cork in rough waters. For the first time in my life I floated on my back. It was pleasant to see the sky. I left the beach refreshed.

On the bus I noticed something. "Gadi, my skin is softer than when I went in."

He nodded and asked my seatmate, "Ruby, what happened to the woman next to you? Yes, the older woman who was next to you? Now there is a girl of 18."

Day six began later than normal. Although we officially had free time without Gadi, I bumped into him in the hotel lobby. "Aren't you off today?"

"Some of the ladies do not feel comfortable going to Old Jerusalem alone," he said. "I will escort them."

"I was talking to one of the waiters last night," I confided. "He asked if I was single. I think I could have a date today."

Gadi took my hand and led me to a dozen people from our bus. "May I have your attention please? From every group that comes here we select one person that we will keep. This is the one from your group. Does she not look lovely since she went floating yesterday? Oh, she was lovely before, but now more so." I felt like a china doll displayed by a fond collector.

Our little flock walked to Old Jerusalem. I wanted to find a dress and finish my Christmas shopping. By midafternoon I returned to the hotel, exhausted but triumphant. After a long nap I wore my new dress to supper.

"Linda," a woman called. "Is that your new dress?"

"Yes."

"It's lovely." The shower of compliments were brightly wrapped gifts.

Day seven began with rain that the parched land desperately needed. Gadi had requested our prayers for rain, and I had hoped we would see them answered.

Our evening meal was a banquet in Tel Aviv. As we drove there Gadi asked us to speak of our experiences. I took the microphone and spoke slowly. "I told many of you at different times that I lost my father this summer. We don't always cry at the proper times. Here I cried, and now I can laugh again."

During our meal Gadi spoke. Often through our stay he had apologized for being long-winded, although he never stopped talking. When he promised to say more on the bus, I couldn't resist. "Gadi, are you ever quiet?"

We laughed a moment, and Gadi remarked to the couple next to me, "She laughs easily, does she not?"

I had been telling them of my last conversation with my father. Now my eyes glistened with tears as I said, "There's so much pain and sorrow in this world. We must laugh every chance we get." Laughter was my praise to God, my joyous declaration that we shall overcome.

On the bus Gadi asked, "You are all right?"

My slowly nodded yes counterbalanced my tear-filled eyes.

Gadi spoke slowly, as if he wanted to chisel his words in granite. "I was glad for your good words," he said. "May you have strength all of your life."

"Yes, Father," I prayed. "Give me the strength to weep as well as laugh."

_________________________
Linda Werman Brawner lives in
Mansfield, Ohio, where since this story was written she is now surviving her husband's death and raising her teenage daughter.

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